Cecelia ChangThis is the travel diary of my beautiful autumn trip to Kyoto in late November. My family and I travelled from Penang, with my parents in their late sixties and my younger sister. After a flight with Juneyao Airlines and a seamless transit through Shanghai Pudong, we finally touched down at Osaka’s Kansai International Airport (KIX). Our anticipation for Kyoto’s autumn colours was as vibrant as the maple leaves themselves!
Also read: 10 Free Things to Do in Kyoto for Singaporeans on a Budget
Logistics, Arrival, and Our Stay in Kyoto
The Fastest Route to Kyoto: The Haruka Express
The Haruka Express is the fastest way to get from KIX to Kyoto Station. We pre-purchased our one-way tickets online. Upon arrival, we initially queued at the green JR automatic ticket machine, which required passport scanning and was unsuccessful. We quickly pivoted and found the white machine, where we successfully scanned the QR code to print our physical Haruka tickets. We then smoothly passed through Gate A.
To make local travel easier, we purchased our ICOCA transportation cards on the spot, with a ¥500 deposit for each. The adorable Hello Kitty-themed train accompanied us for the roughly 80-minute journey toward Kyoto.
Our Kyoto Accommodation: Miro Kyoto Nijo Hotel
Upon reaching Kyoto Station, we took the JR line to Nijo Station and checked into the Miro Kyoto Nijo Hotel for a three-night stay in a four-person room.
Located in Kyoto’s Nakagyo Ward, the hotel is a convenient 10-minute walk from Nijo Subway Station. The surrounding shopping streets offer many hidden local eateries. The front desk staff spoke Chinese and offered complimentary luggage storage. Amenities included a public kitchen, a dining area on the ground floor, and free laundry machines on the second floor. Our room was spacious, featuring a bathtub with a drying function and a private fridge, giving us a warm, home-like feeling.
18 Must-try Autumn Experiences in Kyoto
Get ready for 18 must-try experiences that define autumn in Japan’s ancient capital!
Day 1: Zen, Night Leaves, and Noodle Bliss
1. Nanzen-ji Temple: Sunset Serenity
We took the subway to Keage Station and walked 15 minutes to Nanzen-ji, a massive, 13th-century temple. Though we arrived late, the atmosphere was thick with Zen tranquillity. We heard the daytime maples are stunning, but the temple’s unique evening ambience left a deep mark.
2. Eikan-do Zenrin-ji Temple: A Night Maple Fairytale
Kyoto’s temples often host spectacular night viewings, and Eikan-do is the undisputed king of night momiji. After paying the ¥700 entrance fee, we were immersed in a space lit by spotlights, illuminating over 3,000 maple trees. The reflection of the trees and bridges on the Hōnen Pond was breathtaking—a perfect painting of illuminated leaves.
We ended the night at a little spot called Chanpontei nearby. Their ramen was perfectly rich, the noodles wonderfully chewy—it hit the spot!
Day 2: The Full Arashiyama Immersion
We dedicated our second day to the natural beauty of Arashiyama, taking the JR Sagano Line to Saga-Arashiyama Station. The journey there, surrounded by mountains and dense woods, felt immediately calming.
3. Tenryu-ji Temple: History and Garden Grandeur
As a World Heritage Site and Kyoto’s top Zen temple, Tenryu-ji boasts vast grounds. Its traditional Japanese gardens, ablaze with autumn colour, were a masterpiece of history and nature, truly awe-inspiring.
4. Hozugawa River: Nature’s Gradient Masterpiece
Strolling along the Hozugawa River, we admired the dramatic transformation of the mountainside—a flawless gradient of green, gold, and vibrant crimson. Watching the small flat-bottomed boats glide downriver made us slow down and simply savour the peace.
5. Nonomiya Shrine: Ancient Prayers and Love Spells
This shrine is famous for good luck in matchmaking and academics. Surrounded by historical sites and natural beauty, the atmosphere is deeply spiritual. Watching locals pray with such quiet devotion was moving.
6. Bamboo Grove: A Towering Green Tunnel
Leaving the shrine, we entered the famed Bamboo Grove. Despite the crowds, stepping into the dense forest was like walking through a bright green tunnel, with towering bamboo stalks reaching for the sky. The sunlight filtering down was wonderfully warm and comforting.
7. Togetsukyo Bridge: A Stroll Across 1,200 Years
This historic bridge spans the Ōi River, silently telling tales of 1,200 years of history. Standing here, listening to the rushing water and gazing at the brilliant red leaves of Arashiyama, time seemed to stand still—pure romance.
8. Arashiyama Park: Scenic Rest Stop
On the southern side of the bridge, the Nakanoshima area of Arashiyama Park offered a perfect spot to relax. We grabbed a bench, took a breather, and enjoyed the magnificent autumn view across the river.
9. Arashiyama Shopping Street: Souvenir Treasures
This shopping street was filled with distinctive local shops. We excitedly browsed for unique souvenirs and regional treats, eager to bring a piece of Kyoto’s charm back home.
10. KIMONO Forest: Illuminated Magic at Night
We eventually ended our day at the Yuzen-no-Hikari-Rin (KIMONO Forest) at Arashiyama Station. Once the sun set, the 600 pillars adorned with colourful Kyō-Yūzen patterns lit up, transforming the area into a stunning, dream-like spectacle.
Day 3: Kiyomizu, Old Streets, and City Buzz
11. Kyoto Tower & Yasaka Pagoda: Unexpected City Views
Our third day was dedicated to the Kiyomizu-dera area. The local Kyoto bus system is fantastic—a flat fare of only ¥230 gets you anywhere! On our way, the soaring Kyoto Tower popped into view, a welcome urban surprise.
We hopped off at Kiyomizu-michi. Though the sky was overcast, the weather somehow added a nostalgic flavour to the trip. Right away, we spotted the magnificent 46-meter-tall pagoda of Hokan-ji Temple, standing proudly as a jewel of the old city.
12. Kiyomizu-dera Temple: Ancient Love and Autumn Splendour
Kiyomizu-dera, one of Kyoto’s oldest temples (1,200 years!), is famed for its romantic legends. The sight of visitors in traditional kimonos weaving through the stunning red foliage was truly picture-perfect. The ancient structure perfectly complemented the fiery maple backdrop.
We then stopped for lunch nearby at Wirawaja Restaurant. Its simple, warm decor sets the stage for their richly flavoured curry rice dishes, infused with delicious spices and tender meat.
13. Ninenzaka: A Rainy Walk Through History
After Kiyomizu-dera, a torrential downpour began! We raised our umbrellas on the stone path of Ninenzaka. The rain drumming on the pavement paired beautifully with the surrounding historic buildings. Walking this ancient path felt like stepping into a historical canvas.
14. Kodai-ji Temple & Nene-no-Michi: Peace and Nostalgia
Leaving Ninenzaka, we continued past Kodai-ji Temple and along the Nene-no-Michi. The area was wonderfully quiet. Surrounded by traditional buildings, time seemed to slow down, letting us soak in the old-world charm.
15. Yasaka Shrine: Witness to Happiness
Afterwards, we visited Yasaka Shrine, an important religious landmark known for its mysteriously beautiful, lantern-filled grounds. We were lucky enough to stumble upon an international couple’s wedding, sharing in the warmth and blessings of the moment alongside the other well-wishers.
16. Gion, Kamo River & Nishiki Market: The City Pulse
Heading toward Kawaramachi, we explored the lively Gion Shopping Street, lined with charming shops, delicious snacks, and souvenirs.
We then admired the famous Kamo River, which flows serenely between the busy Shijō and Gion districts. Finally, we plunged into Nishiki Market, known as “Kyoto’s Kitchen.” It was packed, vibrant, and overwhelming—a true feast for the eyes (and stomach!).
For dinner, we returned near the hotel for a cosy meal at Tonkotsu Ramen Kasei. Their deeply flavorful ramen and grilled chashu rice were the perfect end to a long day.
Day 4: Historical Farewell
17. Nijo Castle: Stepping into the Shogun’s Past
On our final day, we visited Nijo Castle, the magnificent 17th-century shogunate residence and a World Heritage Site. Walking the grounds and viewing the twenty historic buildings, we were struck by their sheer power and grandeur. What’s more, the garden was breathtaking, with golden ginkgo leaves illuminated by the sun, truly mesmerising.
18. Shinsen-en Garden: A Tranquil Oasis
We finished our Kyoto tour at Shinsen-en Garden, a peaceful, elegant oasis located just south of Nijo Castle. Strolling across its bridge and admiring the harmonious blend of architecture and nature, we found a final, precious moment of calm before heading to the station.
Also read: 13 Must-Visit Day Trips from Kyoto for Every Traveller
With hearts full of memories, we purchased our Shinkansen tickets to Tokyo. Looking back, Kyoto’s charm and the artistry of its autumn beauty left us completely speechless. So, if you dream of a beautiful Japanese autumn, let this guide be the blueprint for your journey into momiji splendour.
