Wu Swee OngKota Kinabalu often draws eager travellers with the promise of summiting Mount Kinabalu, but this vibrant coastal city in Sabah has so much more to offer: from heritage-rich rail journeys and sunset sails among tropical isles to adrenaline-pumping ziplines and underwater discoveries.
Over a few days, you can explore centuries-old cultures, savour fresh seafood feasts, unwind in five-star luxury, and immerse yourself in both the lush rainforest and the turquoise waters of the South China Sea, all without setting foot on Kinabalu’s slopes. Whether you’re chasing history aboard a steam train, gliding above coral reefs, or teeing off on a championship golf course, KK proves that its true summit lies in the diversity of experiences waiting just beyond its skyline.
Also read: 9 Places to Visit in Sabah For First-Timers
The Flight
Our flight to Kota Kinabalu was an evening flight, and our trip discovery began with a fabulous start in Changi Airport. I did not notice till boarding that we were also given seat number 1. Yes, that is the spacious Hot Seats on AirAsia: perfect for those with long legs (like me)! Once in the air, we were also served hot meals. It’s not often that I have in-flight meals on low-cost carrier flights since most flights are short, but I have to admit the food taste great!
We were hosted by Sutera Harbour Resort, which have two hotels in its premises: The Pacific Sutera Hotel and The Magellan Sutera Resort. The Pacific Sutera, equipped with business suites with wonderful views, as well as access to the Pacific Club Lounge, is popular among business travellers. The Sutera Harbour Marina Golf and Country Club sits between the two with facilities like a 104-berth marina and 27-hole a golf course. Our stay for the night was at the Pacific Sutera.
We were introduced to the Pacific Club lounge the next morning for breakfast with Tracy Lim, the Communications Manager for Sutera Harbour Resort, and our host for the trip. Situated at the top of the hotel, the resort offers great views for breakfast!
Throwback to Steamy North Borneo Railway
Our first activity of the day was a ride on an authentic steam-engined train: the North Borneo Railway. Brought back to life from a museum, the train now runs twice weekly for tourists, from Tanjung Aru to Papar. The firing of the train engine was quite a draw, as everyone clamoured to see the engineers throwing log wood to feed the fire that build the steam that drives the train. It was definitely a throwback to the old days. This was not the only throwback, as the seating and service attire within the train was reminiscent of the olden days.
Our guide Grace Leong, with over 20 years of experience under her belt, was on hand to fill in all the details of the journey. Passing through traditional villages and small towns, paddy fields and mangrove forests, the ride was really pleasant, except for the tropical heat. Through it all, Grace enthusiastically plied us with information and history on the surrounds and also Sabah in general.
There were stops along the way where we could disembark for a short walk around, and the highlight for me was a visit to a local market where Grace introduced us to a local fruit: Tarap. Found nowhere else, it looks like a jackfruit but taste like soursop!
The service onboard was really thoughtful as after each outing, we were presented with this cold-pressed towel which was a god-send in the sweltering heat. To complete an overall wonderful experience, and a further throwback to old times, lunch was then provided in tiffen boxes! Cute!
Sunset Cruising Around the Islands
What better way to close the day than a sunset cruise? That’s exactly what we did in the evening. At the Sutera Harbour Marina, we boarded the Puteri Sutera and went cruising round the islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park. I would think for group outings, these sunset cruises make excellent options.
There are very little things that could beat chilling out on a deck of a beautiful boat with good company and feeling the wind massaging your face and blowing all your worries and stress away. Just before the sunset hour, some tapas and refreshment were brought out to complement the experience. We did not know it then, but this happened to be the best sunset of the few days we were there!
Fun-Filled Day
Day 3 brought out new excitement for us as the day was scheduled to be out on a reef pontoon. Our host for the day, Mr. Youngcrippen from Borneo Passages, was all smiles. We’ll call him Young for short. After all, today’s activities are certainly targeted for the young!
For me, I was doubly excited as the first activity was something I had wanted to do for the longest time: parasailing! As I sat on the harness of the “parachute” (known as the parasail wing), the grin on my face seemed permanent. But apparently, I realised my grin could go even wider when I lifted off into the air! The views were amazing and it was exhilarating floating up in the air. Like I said, these activities are perfect for the young, and Mr Young was on-hand to help us take photos as well!
Next up was something that sounded no less thrilling. The world’s longest island-to-island zipline! We were brought to Sapi Island where Coral Flyer, the operator of the zipline, is situated. It was a spanking new attraction, barely a few weeks old. After the formalities are done (which included the signing of an indemnity form), we were brought to the neighbouring island where we would be ziplining back to Sapi.
In all the excitement, I was still carrying my bulging camera slingbag! Would I be zipping through the air with my slingbag dangling by my side? The staff nonchalantly affirmed that it would be so. I wouldn’t need to be worried though, as the gradient of the slope was actually quite gradual, and as such, the speed was a lot less than I imagined it to be. Which kind of made the activity less “exciting” to me. However, the views more than made up for it!
Also read: 9 Obscure Islands in Malaysia for an Exotic Beach Vacation
Back at the pontoon, Jonathan, manager at the Borneo Reef World, gave us a tour of the pontoon, which included an underwater observatory! We had a quick lunch, cooked fresh on the pontoon, before eagerly “plunging” into our next activity. Another first for me, we got to experience a “sea/scuba walk”. Essentially, we could literally walk underwater with just a specially fitted “helmet” placed over our head. We could breathe normally under this helmet, and so we just concentrated at gaping at the beautiful corals and schools of fish swarming about us.
And as if that was not enough, it was followed by a “Discovery Dive”. We were given a 10-minute crash course on diving, complete with scuba gear: flippers and oxygen tanks and all. The instructors then led us on a short dive to marvel at the wonders of the sea floor. The underwater world is a whole new world, and it was easy for me to be completely lost in it.
Also read: 8 Best Destinations in Southeast Asia for the Water Sports Enthusiast
Back at Sutera Harbour Resorts, we have moved to the Magellan Sutera for our stay. The hotel lobby was magnificently huge and modelled after a Sabah longhouse. They even engaged someone dressed in the ethnic tribal attire to play some traditional music during certain hours. The rooms are absolutely fabulous, as befitting a 5-star resort. Targeted towards families and couples, the decor and ambience would certainly ensure a comfortable and relaxing holiday.
Kota Kinabalu Tourism
Breakfast the next day was at Five Sails, which provided both local and international fare. Even Korean kimchi and Japanese sushi were part of the spread. But nothing beats local laksa made like what you see at the hawkers’, except that well, this was in a 5-star environment.
Grace was again our guide as we embarked on our Kota Kinabalu City tour. We visited several sites including a “floating” mosque (City Mosque) and a “hanging” tower (Menara Tun Mustapha), but the highlight for me was the visit to the Sabah museum. It was a fascinating visit, though unfortunately, no photography was allowed. There was also a heritage village where replicas of the longhouses and village artefacts of the various ethnic groups were displayed. However, we couldn’t linger long as we were ravaged by mosquitoes.
Considering that more than 50% of Malaysia’s mangroves are in Sabah, perhaps that’s why the mosquitoes here are particularly numerous. In fact, there is even a mangrove reserve in the city itself!
Kota Kinabalu also boasts one of the best seafood around, particularly their huge tiger prawns. Thus, our lunch stop was a recipe for a cholesterol overdose. Crabs, prawns, mussels and cockles, it was unfortunately so so good that I had to have a helping.
Sutera Harbour Resorts is also home to a 27-hole championship golf course, divided into 3 distinct 9-hole set – the Lake Course, the Heritage Course and the Garden Course. So naturally, in the late afternoon, we had a short stint at the driving range. Unfortunately, it would seem I am not cut out for golfing, with my golf balls skewing away in dangerous directions! And a blistered thumb for my efforts too. But it was still a happy ending, as later, we were driven around the golf course in a buggy, where we could appreciate the beautiful and thoughtful landscaping.
It was the final night of our stay, and a farewell dinner was specially arranged for us. After freshening up (those golf swings are tiring!), we adjoined at the Ferdinand’s for some fine dining. During the past few days, I got acquainted with many other faces of Sabah, which I have yet to experience. In particular, the wildlife and nature within Sabah have so much to offer. From Proboscis monkeys to Orangutans, and from fireflies to the astonishing Rafflesia, I had envisioned that a revisit would be forthcoming.
To our surprise, at the end of our dinner, we were gifted with a memento: A Proboscis monkey plush toy! No doubt, this would be a constant reminder for me about my revisit to Sabah!
Relaxed Departure
Next day, while we would be flying back home, it was not the end of our trip yet. The flight was early afternoon, and so we had a morning to relax by. And relax we did, in Mandara Spa. Mandara Spa is a luxury spa treatment brand, of Balinese origin and international presence: They are found in over 70 locations worldwide. Its presence certainly complements the facilities available in Sutera Harbour Resorts. I was given a choice of 6 different essential oils for my massage session and I think the whole session might have been sooo relaxing that I can’t remember which of the oils I have chosen! I guess a good massage is a good way to end a trip.
Ready to Uncover KK’s Many Faces?
And so, as I sat on my flight back, I pondered, what have I discovered in Kota Kinabalu? I have ridden on a historic steam-engine train, dived its crystal clear waters, savoured its succulent seafood, zip-lined across its islands, cruised its shimmering seas, golfed its lush green courses, visited its cultural sites and parasailed its wide-open skies.
Truly, by day or night, Kota Kinabalu delivers surprises at every turn. KK’s blend of culture, nature and luxury ensures that whether you’re an explorer, a foodie or simply in search of serenity, Sabah’s capital will capture your heart long before you ever think about that mountain trail. So, pack your bags, as the next chapter of your Sabah story starts here.
Also read: 4D3N Kota Kinabalu Itinerary: The Ultimate Adventure in Sabah’s Capital
Contributed by Roving Light. All images are credited to Wu Swee Ong.
