Shen Lee NgLiving in Southeast Asia is truly a blessing, especially if you love durian. While elsewhere, people pay exorbitant prices just to experience a bite of its controversial taste, we get to enjoy the “King of Fruits” in abundance at the most affordable prices possible. This especially holds true if you happen to have roots in Raub, one of the oldest towns in Pahang, Malaysia. Previously a historic gold-mining settlement, Raub is now renowned as the Durian capital of Malaysia — housing countless durian orchards and supplying most of the Durians within the country as well as overseas.
But even though Raub is always associated with durian, it deserves recognition as a foodie destination as well! From Hakka-style kuih to expertly done roti canai, we bring you through an insider’s guide on places you absolutely cannot miss out during your trip here.
1. Hong Cafe – Knife Cut Noodles
Image credit: Hong Cafe
Raub is home to a large population of Hakka descendants, just like how Hokkiens are the majority in Penang. So while this knife cut noodle dish is typically called Pan mee in Kuala Lumpur and elsewhere, it’s called Dao Ma Qie here! After all, the dish originated from Hakka cuisine.
The Dao Ma Qie here has the usual suspects — wheat flour noodles in a light broth with minced pork, shiitake mushrooms, deep-fried dried anchovies, and the signature sweet potato leaves — all expertly cooked to perfection. However, there’s a mindblowing addition of deep-fried beancurd skin strips, otherwise known as fu chuk. These deep-fried strips of heaven are piled on the very top; make sure you savour them before they get soggy! Crunchy and salty, they add a savoury textural element and bring this noodle dish to a whole ‘nother level. You can even choose to have yours served in a clay pot dish to help preserve the heat!
Address: 22, Lebuhraya Kuala Lumpur – Gua Musang, 27600 Raub District, Pahang
2. Ratha Raub Restaurant – Fish Head Curry & Roti Canai
Image credit: ZhengZhou
With its bright orange exterior, you won’t be able to drive past this colourful corner-lot building without wondering what it is. It’s none other than the infamous Ratha Restaurant Fish Head Curry! The place is well-known to locals, and is generally one of the first spots tourists will head to when in Raub for a food trip. The signature dish of theirs is their fish head curry, done Indian-style.
Image credit: BM Cari
The dish features typical curry components such as ladies fingers, brinjal, and cabbage in a richly coloured red stock, and of course the fish. The stock is impeccable and will convince even the fussiest of curry snobs. Rich because of the coconut milk yet not overly so, the acidity level harmonizes perfectly to make it one of the best curries around!
If you’d like, have the curry with a side of fluffy white rice and a vegetable dish to balance it out. But we highly recommend pairing it with their roti canai which is fluffy, crispy, light flaky, and all in one. Nothing like the dense, chewy versions that are commonplace in the city. Get your hands dirty and dip the roti canai into the curry stock for an unforgettable experience!
Address: 32, Jalan SS 21/35, Damansara Utama, 47400 Petaling Jaya, Selangor
3. Chop Yoon Thye – Hakka Kuih
Image credit: Chop Yoon Thye
Delve a little deeper into the small Hakka village Bukit Koman, and you’ll find yourself with two options: the famous Chai Tofu Factory (scroll down!) and the famous Chop Yoon Thye Hakka kuih. When they say the best eats come from the most nondescript places, they’re certainly not lying!
Chop Yoon Thye is an infamous stall selling traditional Hakka kuih, all made from scratch. When talking about Raub, one simply has to mention her shop. Round, fluffy Hee Pan, various Pao, Ramie leaf kuih and many more! The woman behind these delicious kuih has been doing her craft for a few decades now. These days, her kuih is often sold at the nearby Thursday market, just within walking distance from the shop. But if you’re unlucky enough to pop by on a day when she isn’t open, fret not as right across the road is another stall selling traditional Hakka kuih!
Address: 11, Jalan Bukit Koman, Kampung Bukit Koman, 27600 Raub, Pahang
4. Chai Tofu Factory – Soy Milk and Tofu Puffs
Image credit: Multiple Channels
Often frequented by tourist buses full of local Malaysian visitors, Chai Tofu Factory is on-par with Ratha Raub Restaurant in terms of popularity. The tour buses will park not far away, and visitors will have to walk on foot for a couple of minutes through the narrow routes to reach through the factory.
While not really a “Must Eat” but more of a “Must Drink”, the soy milk or simply “soya bean” as Malaysians call it is sold in either a large or small bottle. The texture is silky smooth and creamy, with a prominent taste of fresh soy. The level of sweetness is just right as well, though you have the option to purchase ones which are unsweetened — perfect for making homemade tofu or for the health-conscious.
Soy milk aside, Chai Tofu Factory is also famous for its tofu puffs or “tau fu pok”. The golden cubes of tofu are incredibly fluffy on the side and make for the perfect souvenir to bring home!
Address: No. 121, Bukit Koman, Pahang, 27600 Raub District
5. Tong Nam Bee Kopitiam – Classic Hainanese Breakfast
Image credit: Discover Raub
These days, it’s difficult enough to find a coffee shop selling good ol’ Hainanese breakfast, not to mention one that does it well. Tong Nam Bee (sometimes called Tong Nam Mei) Kopitiam in Raub is one such coffee shop that does this nostalgic coffee, eggs, and toast spread incredibly well. And rightfully so, as the establishment is one of the 100 oldest coffee shops in Malaysia!
The old-world style interior and furnishings seem to transport you back a couple of decades as soon as you step inside. For drinks, try their aromatic coffee, milo, and three-layer tea — none of that diluted nonsense so common in the city.
Of course, you can’t leave Raub without trying their kaya toast. Choose from soft and fluffy steamed bread or crispy toast, served with a generous pat of butter and a dollop of their fragrant homemade pandan kaya. Coupled with silky half-boiled kampung eggs, there’s no better breakfast to start your day with.
Address: 55, Jalan Tun Razak, 27600 Raub, Pahang
Now that you know where to get some good grub in Pahang, don’t forget to include all of them in your itinerary. Happy travels!
Also read: Top 24 Places to Visit in Malaysia
